Sydney writes:
“So I have a jerk of a nectarine tree. Has yielded nothing in zone 9b. Thinking it could be chill hours, could be it’s near the house and oak tree so even if we’ve gotten the chill it’s got a microclimate to avoid fruiting. Been there for four years. Should I graft a plum to it? Or move it? (Rude gestures has not improved it production)
Another question, I’ve tried garlic a few times unsuccessfully. I have society garlic but ya know I’d like garlic garlic. Recommendations?
let’s talk survival situation oil sources. While lard is an option…plant based ideas? I’ve grown sunflowers with the idea but not pressed oil.
Yerba mate, wet feet for summer? Or no? The creek running through the back 12 floods the cypress heads there and kisses the back “pasture” so I’m thinking of what might like to live there.”
On Non-fruiting Fruit in Warm Climates
The nectarine is likely lacking in chill hours. There are two possible solutions to remedy that:
Solution #1: Try stripping off all the leaves by hand and see if that forces a bloom cycle. This works on apples and pears. I’m not sure about stone fruit, but it’s worth a shot.
Solution #2: Graft that thing. Just take off the top of the tree and graft on scion wood from a tree which is bearing in your area. You can graft on peaches or nectarines and they take quite easily. However, this is the wrong time of year. Do it next year when the tree is dormant. Late winter in your area.
The other possibility is that the tree isn’t getting enough sunlight. Nectarines need full sun – they hate being in any shade. That oak tree could be the problem.
Growing Garlic in Florida
I tried without much luck. UF isn’t much help either. Your best bet are garlic chives. Rachel also planted cloves in Florida, let them grow leaves, then cut and used the leaves in her cooking.
Survival Oil Sources
This is something I’ve studied, especially for soapmaking.
Four years ago I posted an in-depth article on oil sources here.
Yerba Mate and Wet Feet
Yerba mate is grown extensively in the Corrientes Province of Argentina. It is quite humid and wet there, though I doubt the trees are growing in standing water. I don’t know for sure, but I’ll bet the trees can take some moisture. Most trees don’t like standing water, though. If it were my land, I’d plant the area with taro.
6 comments
I grow garlic successfully in the Florida Panhandle (zone 9a), and have heard of others growing it with good results in Central and even South Florida. Two major things to bear in mind for Florida garlic growing:
1. Variety selection is important. Creoles, softnecks, artichokes, and Turbans are more tolerant of our warm winters than most hardnecks or rocamboles. I usually grow Turbans (Shilla this year) in part because they harvest the earliest. I can have them fully cured before the humid, rainy summer weather starts.
2. Even with the right garlic variety, it helps tremendously to vernalize seed garlic for several weeks immediately before planting. I can get away with 6-8 weeks of vernalizing in colder years, but 10-12 weeks of vernalizing works even in warm years. For zone 9b, I would definitely try to vernalize for 10-12 weeks.
Vernalizing “tricks” the garlic into thinking that it has been through winter already. Then when the garlic is planted, ideally in October or November, it “thinks” that the mild Florida winter is a nice long spring and grows happily all winter long.
Vernalizing is easy: put your intact heads of seed garlic in a paper bag in your refrigerator. You want to keep the bag away from fruits and vegetables that produce ethylene gas, so don’t put the garlic in the crisper or produce bin. DON’T put the garlic in the freezer! After vernalizing, wait to take the garlic out of the fridge until you are ready to plant it, because it will sprout immediately.
You might need to shop around to find a vendor who will ship your seed garlic as early as possible, since most won’t ship until September. That’s too late for the full vernalization period.
One last tip: mulch your garlic deeply. In warm Florida winter/spring weather the soil can get warm too early in the year. High soil temperatures can cause early bulbing, leading to undersized heads. A nice thick layer of organic mulch keeps soil cooler.
For more reading: http://www.gourmetgarlicgardens.com/warm-winter-growing.html and http://greyduckgarlic.com/Southern_Garlic_Grower_Guide.html are great resources.
(Note: I am not affiliated with either website, but their advice has helped me a lot.)
Thanks a ton, Laura!
Thank you for the garlic info. I’ve tried unsuccessfully a few times but I will go ahead and give it a go again.
You’re welcome, and good luck, Sydney!
[…] proves yet again that just because I haven’t figured something out it doesn’t mean that it can’t be done. If anyone else has had success, please chime in. […]
[…] proves yet again that just because I haven’t figured something out it doesn’t mean that it can’t be done. If anyone else has had success, please chime in. […]
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